2017 Holiday Derby

My Making schedule is based on the calendar; Sandals in the Spring, Derbys in the Fall.

The choice to go with suede was a risky one but it came out OK.

The development of the design went thru several stages but the theme of overlap has been maintained.

2017 Derby Development

After two design tryouts I have a finished development pair

I really began to like the "shadow" or "peek out" of the heel cap and the toe cap so that is the theme for these

My 1st fully stitched Landis 12 L pair; Great Machine!
I have a full 1/4" Poron inside too

The goal is to make a fully hemmed version next

Its the patterns that get a little tricky

Instead of having little strips of patterns I'll cut windows and include the peek-outs with the adjacent pattern

As I go thru the development I make changes; add or subtract from the original unless it is a full on theme change the Master and the drape are still related

2017 Men's Sandal Development (3/8" padded footbed)

I really wanted to get to a buckle on the 2016 sandal.

A complete re-work of the basic theme

I am getting the lasting down by leaving the lining complete even in the area of the buckle so that the buckle is not taking the lasting loads

So with this method I can have any parts floating in any way and still have the lasted look

This time I wanted to us my super soft 1/4"Poron so on top of that goes 1/8" of a stiffer Poron blue
This makes it possible for me to wrap the foot bed by hand and get a crisp edge'

DIY Leather Burnishing Wheel - Motor

Been working on refining the wheel part of my burnisher for a year or so and have it pretty good.

Just a 1/4hp motor will do the job

I made this collet for the end of the motor but you might be able to buy a collet too

The shortest length from the motor to the wheel is best

I used Bass wood but pine is OK, I use bee's wax and have nice results

The trick is that you have to have access to a wood or metal lathe, this is 2" in dia. and about 2" long

Over time I modified the grooves to suit my needs and I feel free to change them at will because there is very little cost involved.

Making:
The most important thing is to mount the wood to the shaft securely and then use that shaft to turn the wood on the lathe.
This is the best (only) way to make sure that the turned wood is super concentric with the shaft it is mounted to. If you turn the wood 1st then center drill it you will still see wobbling. 
I really don't like using wheels that are not concentric because it bounces the work around and it also only uses one area of the wheel.
The most important thing is to mount the wood to the shaft securely

I can provide drawings if needed.

10.10.17
I have refined the drum process:

1. I take a piece of Bass wood and drill a 3/4 hole 
2. Slide in place a 3/4 x 1/8" wall tube
3. Drill and tap a 1/4-20 set screw
4. Mount this to the lathe

This reduces the number of parts and the distance from the motor

See bench-top set-up

CB801 CowBoy Leather Skiver

So I decided that the number one machine that would help me get thru project development faster had to be a bell knife skiver.

The CB801 is a Chinese version of apparently the only design on earth that anyone ever developed for skiving. 
It has a nice sound to it and 1st runs are very promising.

These machines are not for the "UN-mechanically" inclined; you will have a learning curve if you have never used one.

It is a technical machine that requires practice, practice, practice.

Adjusting the presser foot has two dimensions

Adjusting the drive wheel has two or three

Adusting the the bell knife has one

Grinding the bell knife is a challenge

Deck Shoe with Side Sole Stitch

So I need something for spring especially something to wear to the CCS Student Show.
I had this cross-over idea for some time and as we all know if an idea won't leave you alone you must act upon  it!

The basic idea is that the derby vamp line goes rearward of the normal point, and the heel cap goes forward of its conventional point; thereby crossing over.

As a summer shoe I saw the opportunity to open up the crossover and so had to set up the stitch lines carefully. The original, original idea was to do a woven leather vamp but I still don't know how to do that.

The lining does not have the hole in it

Skived and ready to assemble

Back half assembly

Closed Upper

Lasted

I am likely going to make my own cup-sole

The opening in the side was well received however, it made some awful wrinkles.

I went ahead without it.

Went with a hand made cup-sole

My 1st use of the side wall stitcher

2017 Derbys

I really wanted to push the side facing forward and do a cap heel for this pair; may have gone too far with the side facing but I do like the heel cap.

I have the last tuned in to where I like the fit and the "Chamfer" toe

I think it is because I have been working with the students at CCS on their sneakers that I was influenced by the long side facing.

Still not sure whats wrong with the extended side facing?

Marika comes to CCS in the D

This week in the FAD department at CCS we had the pleasure of an intensive one-day with Marika Verploegh from Brooklyn NY. 

Marika presented several things:

• A "down and dirty" canvass last wrapping method
• A shrink wrap material for protecting your uppers during out-sole work
• And edge finishing of a stack heel.

The students got to try out the canvass wrap on a h-heel boot last and spend some time finishing.

Marika is a Master Bespoke Maker and teaches at RISD and FIT.

She was very kind to spend the day with me in my shop talking and reviewing shoes and shoe making tools of which I now make and sell about 10 different products. 

2017 Boot Making Class at CCS

Cynthia Montague is teaching us one of the leather boots that she and Tim make in Flint Mi. at Sutorial.  The class is being taught at CCS on Saturdays and spans 10 sessions.

We did the foot measure, size selection, clicking, and closing.

With that we went to the cutting table and made a full set of lining and outer parts.

With that finished I did the closing 

 The Cynthia method of insole

With router bit, sander, and die grinder

Further progress

Fully Welted

Test Fit!

Added my signature tri-nail pattern

Polished and ready

More to come...