Thursday, September 18, 2014

Shoe Making: Men's Practise Derby V4b

As a novice Maker I am trying to establish a solid understanding of the process.

Modification to the 11B is just to give me a little more room in the tarsometatarsal area; the area of the vamp. 

The full set of patterns.
I have started putting the Key points on everything; the patterns, the drape, even the lasts!
In order to try out my latest invention; the "curved awl pliers" I made a traditional set of channels.
Pre lasting complete, I really like this new last!

More to come...

Shoe Making: Men's Practise Derby V4a

So I got  good deal on a pair of 11B lasts (1958) and the are near perfect fit for me.
I started directly with my pattern making and my continuing search to get the details right. Both the facing corner and the derby side line are getting perfected.

I've got a good feel for the drape form modifications.
This the drafting kit that seems to work for me.

I am getting some real valuable experience by doing this process again and again.
I have discovered a Derby line that I really like and how to reproduce it easily. Also, there are so many adjustment notes above the pattern master that I am now keeping that piece of scrap above the master so I have a record of my modifications.
I'm using a 1/2" lap joint on both the outer and the lining. I find this is actually better than a 1/4". I am also very happy with the lining joint set at 1/2 way between the facing corner and the Derby line touch-down point.

So I have got a little better at using my newly developed channel knife; the secret is to make the top cut before using the knife.

Air stapler and air nailer.