Sunday, December 28, 2014

Shoe Making: Women's "Comfort" Derby

For Marcy for Christmas I made this pair of Derbys. 

And yes the decision to go with contrasting thread is risky business!

Having gone thru several Men's Derbys this year I made quick work of these.

Monday, December 1, 2014

Bespoke Handbag: Calf skin

When my friend Marcia stopped me in the middle of the street and asked if would remake her favorite bag with a calf skin she recently found, I simply said Yes.

The old one was in bad shape.
I started with pattern making and trying to get the most out of the hide.

The hide is beautiful.
I made a little logo out of her initials.
Trying to use every bit of the hide there was just enough for a glasses case too.
The real fun was making the lining, Bags are really two bags; one inside of the other.
A zipper pocket (with my own logo) on one side.
And a divided cell phone and whatever pocket on the other.
Shoe making is a fantastic primer for handbags; stitch size, edge finish, material thickness, etc. Leather goods are all about the details.
However, just as with shoes there are unseen internal reinforcements, stiffeners, and doublers that are essential to the function. This is the technical mechanical side that I love too.

I'm really thankful to have been challenged to make something that has been on my radar but would never have quite got to it without a little push.

Shoe Making: Men's Sandal Development V3

OK I may have plumbed the depths of thick leather sandal making with this experiment. I used 9oz outer and 1.5oz inner. I call these my "Work" sandals.

I will reiterate that I am a full time sandal wearer and take them very seriously. I am trying to discover the perfect pair of sandals for my self so that I can share them with the rest of the guys out there.
I would be comfortable making bespoke sandals.

I see no sense in making a balanced pattern for sandals since it is a bunch of little parts.
With experience I have developed how to get the separate parts out without damaging the whole. It never hurts to over label things.
TIP: I use packing tape on the back side of the paper patterns to stiffen them.
Out of 5 patterns I get 8 different parts, try to limit the number of separate pattern pieces.
Then the lining covers many parts and joins them together.
I used my latest invention to aid the channel cut.
I love using Gorilla Glue BUT you have to limit the amount or this will happen, the expansion on the underside is no prob' but on the sides is.

On to V4