Sunday, September 10, 2017

DIY Leather Burnishing Wheel - Motor

Been working on refining the wheel part of my burnisher for a year or so and have it pretty good.
Just a 1/4hp motor will do the job
I made this collet for the end of the motor but you might be able to buy a collet too
The shortest length from the motor to the wheel is best
I used Bass wood but pine is OK, I use bee's wax and have nice results
The trick is that you have to have access to a wood or metal lathe, this is 2" in dia. and about 2" long

Over time I modified the grooves to suit my needs and I feel free to change them at will because there is very little cost involved.

Making:
The most important thing is to mount the wood to the shaft securely and then use that shaft to turn the wood on the lathe.
This is the best (only) way to make sure that the turned wood is super concentric with the shaft it is mounted to. If you turn the wood 1st then center drill it you will still see wobbling. 
I really don't like using wheels that are not concentric because it bounces the work around and it also only uses one area of the wheel.
The most important thing is to mount the wood to the shaft securely

I can provide drawings if needed.






Thursday, June 8, 2017

CB801 CowBoy Leather Skiver

So I decided that the number one machine that would help me get thru project development faster had to be a bell knife skiver.
The CB801 is a Chinese version of apparently the only design on earth that anyone ever developed for skiving. 
It has a nice sound to it and 1st runs are very promising.

These machines are not for the "UN-mechanically" inclined; you will have a learning curve if you have never used one.

It is a technical machine that requires practice, practice, practice.

Adjusting the presser foot has two dimensions

Adjusting the drive wheel has two or three

Adusting the the bell knife has one

Grinding the bell knife is a challenge



Sunday, March 26, 2017

Deck Shoe with Side Sole Stitch

So I need something for spring especially something to wear to the CCS Student Show.
I had this cross-over idea for some time and as we all know if an idea won't leave you alone you must act upon  it!

The basic idea is that the derby vamp line goes rearward of the normal point, and the heel cap goes forward of its conventional point; thereby crossing over.
As a summer shoe I saw the opportunity to open up the crossover and so had to set up the stitch lines carefully. The original, original idea was to do a woven leather vamp but I still don't know how to do that.

The lining does not have the hole in it
Skived and ready to assemble
Back half assembly
Closed Upper
Lasted
I am likely going to make my own cup-sole

The opening in the side was well received however, it made some awful wrinkles.

I went ahead without it.


Went with a hand made cup-sole


My 1st use of the side wall stitcher













Sunday, February 26, 2017

2017 Derbys

I really wanted to push the side facing forward and do a cap heel for this pair; may have gone too far with the side facing but I do like the heel cap.

I have the last tuned in to where I like the fit and the "Chamfer" toe



I think it is because I have been working with the students at CCS on their sneakers that I was influenced by the long side facing.
Still not sure whats wrong with the extended side facing?

Wednesday, February 15, 2017

Marika comes to CCS in the D

This week in the FAD department at CCS we had the pleasure of an intensive one-day with Marika Verploegh from Brooklyn NY. 



Marika presented several things:
  • A "down and dirty" canvass last wrapping method
  • A shrink wrap material for protecting your uppers during out-sole work
  • And edge finishing of a stack heel.


The students got to try out the canvass wrap on a h-heel boot last and spend some time finishing.

Marika is a Master Bespoke Maker and teaches at RISD and FIT.

She was very kind to spend the day with me in my shop talking and reviewing shoes and shoe making tools of which I now make and sell about 10 different products. 


Wednesday, January 25, 2017

2017 Boot Making Class at CCS

Cynthia Montague is teaching us one of the leather boots that she and Tim make in Flint Mi. at Sutorial.  The class is being taught at CCS on Saturdays and spans 10 sessions.

We did the foot measure, size selection, clicking, and closing.

With that we went to the cutting table and made a full set of lining and outer parts.


With that finished I did the closing 

 The Cynthia method of insole

With router bit, sander, and die grinder




Further progress

Fully Welted


Test Fit!

Added my signature tri-nail pattern
Polished and ready




More to come...

Thursday, December 15, 2016

2016 Darbys

Needed a pair of casual AND Christmas derbys so this is what I came up with.

The Last has two modifications from the previous; I added a full 1/8 on the sole so that I could have a Poron base under my foot.

And added a little in the joint area to give my foot more room over the great toe - ball.







Getting more adventuress with the lining; still not where I want it...

The new water based contact cement is so sticky that I only need tack around the heel & toe.













Experimenting with buckram for toe puff & counter