Photo Shoot - Fairy Fields and other Favorites

As I thought Fairy Fields can only be viewed ON foot.

Scott brought back a favorite model Stephanie to shoot a couple of outfits and his 1st pair of pumps.

For my latest we decided that the forested yard was perfect

Awesome!

In addition one of my all time favorite wedges

 These are the Brunhilda

 And lastly Fallen

High Heels Making - Fairy Fields Theatrical Shoes

This is why I don't do what I call Theatrical works all the time; this pair took 6 months and required multiple experiments, inventions, and trips to my leather source.

The finished work is well worth it and the photo shoot will complete the process.

The process went like this...

The original sketch

The 1st challenge was the heel, it needed to be growing out of the ground and had to have a standard heel insert on the bottom to be functional.

Being a complicated 3 dimensional piece I decided to mock it up in CAD so I had something concrete to reference.

I choose 1/8th steel rod, this gave me a 1/8 dia. hole down the middle when in an array of 6.

After a little experimentation I decided on the different lengths and brazed them together

I flared them out according to the plan and fit them to the last at every stage of shaping. I started out making four even though I new I only needed two.

A plate was required to have something solid to screw into and to hold the wires in position

With the plates formed to fit the heel they could be brazed onto the wires

Next I made some leafs.

On a project like this I jump around from one invention to another while one of the other mystery parts is simmering in my head.

I used small dia. aluminum welding rod for the stems; its very flexible and soft.

Started making them using everything in the scrap bin, I knew I would need a lot to choose from so many extras were made.

Next I made the pattern and I really like the strap area; I made it longer than needed so that I could last it tight and trim it as I wished.

I put in a filler and tapered it so that the out-sole had a smooth transition from lasted upper to toe. This a common problem with sandals in that the out-sole has small gaps each time it passes over a strap.

An early attempt at understanding the design

In creating the leafs for the heel stems a different method became necessary.
I really liked the stitched in curve and the way that the edge of the leaf transitions into the single stitch line, all the other leafs have two stitch lines.

Next came developing the covers for the heels.
I started wild guessing at what might work and continued to boil it down until I had something workable.
This type of work is best done in longer sessions so that the many little things you learn are not forgotten over night.
I made at least 10 coverings and 6 changes to the pattern.

I discovered that the book binding leather shrinks nicely when whetted and that hand stitching was the only option.
I ended up modifying a pair of channel locks so that I could hold the leather in place and stitch precisely next too the steel rods.

I formed and edge finished the out-sole to exact fit
Another critical invention was filing grooves into the upper; this helps the leafs stay in place and limits the bumpy fit of the out-sole.

With a near finished arrangement of the leafs I needed to create the socks, Lisa came in last fall to demo inlay - overlay and so I used my new skill to make the leafy sock.

This is my method for continuous improvement; the rule is "one new machine, process, or technology per year" by that I mean EVERY year I have to find something new for the shop or my craft repertoire

2018 Men's Shoe - Apron Cut

I was looking at showing off the modified toe I designed into this last and wanted a Whole cut level surface; no toe cap, no side facings anywhere near the toe form.

I went thru my usual multi step process of design and have one more version yet to complete

The order of assembly was the 1st big question so the early versions helped me confirm the process. 

I started here:

and was disappointed

then added the tab

than added the tab in the tab

and finished with the asymmetrical apron.

the pattern just gets updated each time

Shoe Pattern Makers - Best Choice French Curves

I am not a master maker, However I am a skilled Draftsman.

Trained over 35 years ago in the Art of Auto Body Drafting on the "Board" strictly 2D, in Detroit just before CAD came into wide spread use. Auto Body Drafting was the last holdout for CAD because of the difficulty of Curve and Surface development compared to Machine drafting.

Because Curves can be expensive I thought I would share my recommendations for those getting started and wishing to keep their investment to a minimum.

I was so happy to start Pattern Drafting because it felt like home. Jessie taught me the process and I have been hard at it since then, refining and trying to understand what is important and what isn't.

I  have about 75 or more Curves and Sweeps from my years in Drafting. Over the last three years of Pattern Making I have boiled them down to 3 different curves that get me thru the process. Of course having 5 - 10 curves won't hurt however they will represent your personal touch.

For shoes I can get by with the 4" x 8" Brunning 74 206 16 French Curve

For boots you will want a longer Sweep; about 4.5" x 14" and/or 5" x 17"

My recommendation for buying is to look closely at the curves to convince yourself that there are no unusual "flats" "dents" or "bumps."

The best curves were / are machined and not injection molded, hand made curves are not often "sweet"enough for my tastes.

"If we all used the same French Curve our shoes will all look the same" not so; we are all going to come up with different results by the proper use of the curve while following your freehand curve.
I can make a video but YouTube is probably already there.

So for shoes the three places I am most concerned about are the Top Line, Heel Curve, and Derby Curve.

After using many other Curves I believe that this particular shape contains within it most of what I need.

Just to be clear; if you overlay all three of these curves over each other they WILL NOT necessarily match exactly... that's OK.

Have fun Drafting, I do!