"Armored" Derby the FlashCut method

With access to the College for Creative Studies FAD Flashcut 222 I decided to go back to a style that I love but that is very difficult to click by hand.

For several reasons I am really enamored with the Flashcut; for intricate work such as this type of precision. Two things come together to enhance the outcome beyond the traditional methods.

1. Creating the patterns in CAD
2. Cutting and marking the patterns with the Flash

This system in no way eliminates or simplifies the pattern Master Forme'; you still have to create a Master in which ever way you are most experienced with. I use the "tape and drape" to Master method.

The interesting thing is that as soon as I have a Master I can stop the pattern drafting by hand and go directly to CAD.

1. Scan your Master to jpeg
2. Open your scan in Photoshop or any program that will tell you the EXACT length and width of the scan image to the 0.001", record these dimensions (example 10.867" x 16.698") 
3. Use these dimensions to check that your jpeg imports exactly to size into your CAD or CAR program. (so far we are using only Illustrator and Rhino)

The methods for creating the various parts in CAD are the same as by hand, and take about as long.
I keep the Design lines and the primary construction lines (fold lines etc.) in one layer and create each part in a separate layer.


It is only when you compare the CAD lines and curves to your drafting versions that the real beauty of cad comes to light.

1. The creation of Parallel Offsets is something that the computer does with ease and by hand can be clumsy. 
2. Changes are new lines and the old lines can be saved 
3. Seeing "thru" the parts and turning layers on and off is a great way to weed thru the various parts.

This is Rhino 4 layers list; for this multi piece project there are 10 separate parts, for ease and efficiency in Flashcut I make separate files for left and right parts.

I have since separated the side facing into two parts
I am on V3c as far as versions go.

The only full scale pattern I needed was for the dart at the heel because you can't cut on one side and print on the other.

Front half and rear half complete

Closed upper

Top-line tape and eyelet reinforcements

I use a piece of tube to tape down the tongue, I make the lining 1/16 shorter per side.

Creating in CAD and marking all of the stitch lines with the Flashcut is a confidence booster and allows for creativity that I would usually avoid like tapered stitch lines.

Obviously the precision of clicking improves the assembly and reduces accumulated errors.

One of my latest tools is a 3/4" plank shaped like a heel for the purpose of taping down the quarters.
I make the lining 1/8" snaller per side and this system work fine.

I'm experimenting with Wonderflex for both Toe and heel counters, works nice.

Always a pain to hold while applying the paste glue so I made this hanging board.

I used a blunted chisel on the Cordovan; it is a peculiar experience; it does not act like regular leather.

For my American Welt? I use my old 77 and chain stitch around the perimeter and around the shank too.

11.20.18

Pressing the sole

Made a steel template to outline the 5" radius for the heel breast

Stitched with the CCS Landis

Next version with subtle changes (work shoe)

The hardest job of ALL; finishing the heel breast

Photo Shoot - Fairy Fields and other Favorites

As I thought Fairy Fields can only be viewed ON foot.

Scott brought back a favorite model Stephanie to shoot a couple of outfits and his 1st pair of pumps.

For my latest we decided that the forested yard was perfect

Awesome!

In addition one of my all time favorite wedges

 These are the Brunhilda

 And lastly Fallen

High Heels Making - Fairy Fields Theatrical Shoes

This is why I don't do what I call Theatrical works all the time; this pair took 6 months and required multiple experiments, inventions, and trips to my leather source.

The finished work is well worth it and the photo shoot will complete the process.

The process went like this...

The original sketch

The 1st challenge was the heel, it needed to be growing out of the ground and had to have a standard heel insert on the bottom to be functional.

Being a complicated 3 dimensional piece I decided to mock it up in CAD so I had something concrete to reference.

I choose 1/8th steel rod, this gave me a 1/8 dia. hole down the middle when in an array of 6.

After a little experimentation I decided on the different lengths and brazed them together

I flared them out according to the plan and fit them to the last at every stage of shaping. I started out making four even though I new I only needed two.

A plate was required to have something solid to screw into and to hold the wires in position

With the plates formed to fit the heel they could be brazed onto the wires

Next I made some leafs.

On a project like this I jump around from one invention to another while one of the other mystery parts is simmering in my head.

I used small dia. aluminum welding rod for the stems; its very flexible and soft.

Started making them using everything in the scrap bin, I knew I would need a lot to choose from so many extras were made.

Next I made the pattern and I really like the strap area; I made it longer than needed so that I could last it tight and trim it as I wished.

I put in a filler and tapered it so that the out-sole had a smooth transition from lasted upper to toe. This a common problem with sandals in that the out-sole has small gaps each time it passes over a strap.

An early attempt at understanding the design

In creating the leafs for the heel stems a different method became necessary.
I really liked the stitched in curve and the way that the edge of the leaf transitions into the single stitch line, all the other leafs have two stitch lines.

Next came developing the covers for the heels.
I started wild guessing at what might work and continued to boil it down until I had something workable.
This type of work is best done in longer sessions so that the many little things you learn are not forgotten over night.
I made at least 10 coverings and 6 changes to the pattern.

I discovered that the book binding leather shrinks nicely when whetted and that hand stitching was the only option.
I ended up modifying a pair of channel locks so that I could hold the leather in place and stitch precisely next too the steel rods.

I formed and edge finished the out-sole to exact fit
Another critical invention was filing grooves into the upper; this helps the leafs stay in place and limits the bumpy fit of the out-sole.

With a near finished arrangement of the leafs I needed to create the socks, Lisa came in last fall to demo inlay - overlay and so I used my new skill to make the leafy sock.

This is my method for continuous improvement; the rule is "one new machine, process, or technology per year" by that I mean EVERY year I have to find something new for the shop or my craft repertoire