Men's Sandal 2019 V2

I am so much happier with the outcome of V2!

I created a good adjustable strap and re-proportioned the entire piece.

I mapped out the patterns on Rhino discovering half way into it that I could combine strap B (the 2nd strap from the front) and it's pad together with the sides making a far more efficient build.

I have one last design change to tune some of the "theoretical's" in, but I'm wearing them now and they are going to NYC with me in a couple of weeks.

The strap over the instep is ultimately the better choice than around the heel because it is easier to use for every day in and out.

The two tone foot beds were what I had lying around; the new ones are coming.

10.22.19

Completed the last of this series for this year.

I made a couple of design modifications isolated to the making with only on part change.
The instep strap needed to be an inch longer so I did that.
The stitching around the parts is changed to make a better, more comfortable look.
And because the pattern is completely symmetrical I swapped the link from the outside to the inside!

Shoe Last Modification Technique

Everyone has there own "best way" this is the way I like to do it.

Toe modification is common, I use leather, the sides are real easy this way too.

Make one last Perfect then go after the the other, there is no point of doing them together until you are good at it or it is a simple change.

I start with skiving leather strips and gluing them onto the last.

The 5 in 1 is quick and easy

Soak in water for a minute

Fit and form

Gorilla glue, staple stretch, and hammer

The real trick here is to use the stretch tape.
The stretch tape is a constant force over the entire area and also lets the glue dry over night.

With the tape removed forming can start
When you use your belt sander keep the leather wet
"Feathering" (auto body repair term) the new into the old is slow and careful; you want a smooth transition without a dip.

After I am happy I use Minwax WATER BASED polyurethane to cote the leather; it soaks into the leather and stabilizes the surface.

Transferring to the other side I will cover later

Men's Sandal 2019 V1

In the never ending quest for the perfect sandal this year I am working on a more layered design.

I am already in the redesign phase for this one but I felt I should document how things went for V1

This is the 6th design iteration and they are comfortable.
However I have not been able to get the velcro strap to work regardless of the type of velcro so I just sewed them closed.

Earlier versions helped prove out the assembly sequence

Initial idea has way too many lining parts!
I am now down to two lining halves with a seam down the middle
Some things you have to do to prove that you don't want to do that!

The trick for lasting when you are planning on velcro is to set the design up to be temporarily sewn together and add the velcro after lasting

I'm now convinced that for a back strap velcro you have to have a turning ring to take the stress; that design will come in 2020

Wonder Cutter for Leather

After several months of getting to know the FlashCut 222 I realized that I wanted a hand-held vibrating knife.

I started looking are the net for what was out there and came across the Wonder Cutter.

I was thinking more of an engraver with a knife attached and I still
think that would be effective, however, there are several Ultrasonic
knifes available, most with hefty price tags.



The Wonder Cutter is not cheap but for leather working I really wanted to
advance the cutting performance of my standard clicking knife.



It takes some getting used to, although it reduces the effort required to
through your materials, it requires a completely different feel than
does your Xacto. Its more difficult to feel when you are through the
material, you have to practice with it, I do not have enough time on it yet.







02.11.19
So the difficulty in cutting came primarily from the cutting mat. The mat too is easily melted and as such it does not provide a useful resistance to the effort of dragging the knife thru the material.
In other words you can't tell exactly what you are cutting; the leather or the mat.
I discovered that a 1/4" CORK mat makes all the difference. I doesn't melt and doesn't drag on the knife I think this is the better cutting mat fo the Wonder Cutter.