CB801 CowBoy Leather Skiver

So I decided that the number one machine that would help me get thru project development faster had to be a bell knife skiver.

The CB801 is a Chinese version of apparently the only design on earth that anyone ever developed for skiving. 
It has a nice sound to it and 1st runs are very promising.

These machines are not for the "UN-mechanically" inclined; you will have a learning curve if you have never used one.

It is a technical machine that requires practice, practice, practice.

Adjusting the presser foot has two dimensions

Adjusting the drive wheel has two or three

Adusting the the bell knife has one

Grinding the bell knife is a challenge

Deck Shoe with Side Sole Stitch

So I need something for spring especially something to wear to the CCS Student Show.
I had this cross-over idea for some time and as we all know if an idea won't leave you alone you must act upon  it!

The basic idea is that the derby vamp line goes rearward of the normal point, and the heel cap goes forward of its conventional point; thereby crossing over.

As a summer shoe I saw the opportunity to open up the crossover and so had to set up the stitch lines carefully. The original, original idea was to do a woven leather vamp but I still don't know how to do that.

The lining does not have the hole in it

Skived and ready to assemble

Back half assembly

Closed Upper

Lasted

I am likely going to make my own cup-sole

The opening in the side was well received however, it made some awful wrinkles.

I went ahead without it.

Went with a hand made cup-sole

My 1st use of the side wall stitcher

2017 Derbys

I really wanted to push the side facing forward and do a cap heel for this pair; may have gone too far with the side facing but I do like the heel cap.

I have the last tuned in to where I like the fit and the "Chamfer" toe

I think it is because I have been working with the students at CCS on their sneakers that I was influenced by the long side facing.

Still not sure whats wrong with the extended side facing?

Marika comes to CCS in the D

This week in the FAD department at CCS we had the pleasure of an intensive one-day with Marika Verploegh from Brooklyn NY. 

Marika presented several things:

• A "down and dirty" canvass last wrapping method
• A shrink wrap material for protecting your uppers during out-sole work
• And edge finishing of a stack heel.

The students got to try out the canvass wrap on a h-heel boot last and spend some time finishing.

Marika is a Master Bespoke Maker and teaches at RISD and FIT.

She was very kind to spend the day with me in my shop talking and reviewing shoes and shoe making tools of which I now make and sell about 10 different products. 

2017 Boot Making Class at CCS

Cynthia Montague is teaching us one of the leather boots that she and Tim make in Flint Mi. at Sutorial.  The class is being taught at CCS on Saturdays and spans 10 sessions.

We did the foot measure, size selection, clicking, and closing.

With that we went to the cutting table and made a full set of lining and outer parts.

With that finished I did the closing 

 The Cynthia method of insole

With router bit, sander, and die grinder

Further progress

Fully Welted

Test Fit!

Added my signature tri-nail pattern

Polished and ready

More to come...

2016 Darbys

Needed a pair of casual AND Christmas derbys so this is what I came up with.

The Last has two modifications from the previous; I added a full 1/8 on the sole so that I could have a Poron base under my foot.

And added a little in the joint area to give my foot more room over the great toe - ball.

Getting more adventuress with the lining; still not where I want it...

The new water based contact cement is so sticky that I only need tack around the heel & toe.

Experimenting with buckram for toe puff & counter

2016 Sandal Development V3 (1/4" padded in-sole)

Working on the 3rd in the development series, of the sandal.
This fully hemmed version includes darts to re leave the stiffness at the toe and tongue areas.

Further development of the insole "pocket" understanding the best techniques.

Also going with a chain stitched welt.

Glued 1st, then ground flat, then stitched.

The notch reliefs are so helpful in eliminating rub points.

And  couple more...