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Thursday, September 18, 2014

Shoe Making: Men's Practise Derby V4a

So I got  good deal on a pair of 11B lasts (1958) and the are near perfect fit for me.
I started directly with my pattern making and my continuing search to get the details right. Both the facing corner and the derby side line are getting perfected.

I've got a good feel for the drape form modifications.
This the drafting kit that seems to work for me.

I am getting some real valuable experience by doing this process again and again.
I have discovered a Derby line that I really like and how to reproduce it easily. Also, there are so many adjustment notes above the pattern master that I am now keeping that piece of scrap above the master so I have a record of my modifications.
I'm using a 1/2" lap joint on both the outer and the lining. I find this is actually better than a 1/4". I am also very happy with the lining joint set at 1/2 way between the facing corner and the Derby line touch-down point.

So I have got a little better at using my newly developed channel knife; the secret is to make the top cut before using the knife.

Air stapler and air nailer.

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